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Get your bearings


DMZ, South Korea, Panmunjom
South Korean soldiers stand guard at the border village of Panmunjom.
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When imagining the 2.5-mile-wide DMZ, the first image that comes to mind is often the Joint Security Area (JSA), also known as the Panmunjom truce area. It's easily identifiable by the vibrant blue Military Armistice Commission Conference Room, which straddles the Military Demarcation Line.

Surprisingly quiet, the JSA has been called "haunting" and "unsettling" due in part to barbed wire fences and steely military personnel.

Bill Clinton, who visited in 1993, famously called it the "scariest place on earth."

"Panmunjom is the most-visited part of the DMZ, from both sides," says Simon Cockerell, managing director of Koryo Tours, which organizes independent travel to North Korea.
"This is where you can see the front line up close, and even cross it within (the conference room)."

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How to visit


DMZ, South Korea, Panmunjom
A view from the Dora Observatory.
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On both sides of the DMZ, travelers must book a guided private or group tour with an official operator, such as Koryo Tours in the North, or Viator in the South.

In North Korea, there are two major points of interest within the DMZ: Panmunjom and the Concrete Wall observation post, which overlooks the South Korean anti-tank barrier on the southern end of the treaty zone.

In contrast, the South Korean side of the DMZ, and the surrounding area, encompasses several parks, observation towers and museums -- plus a plethora of tour itineraries.

US travelers have been banned from visiting North Korea since September 1, 2017, so access via the South is the only option. Most first-time visitors choose a combined DMZ and JSA tour by way of Seoul.

The itinerary usually takes travelers to unfinished infiltration tunnels (said to be built by the North), the barricaded Freedom Bridge (used to return prisoners at the end of the war), Nuri Peace Park, the Dora Observatory and the Mount Odu Observatory.

Also known as Unification Hill, the Mount Odu Observatory is a highlight, providing voyeuristic travelers with binoculars and 360-degree views across the peninsula.

From this perch, you'll see the modern cities and cars of South Korea in one direction, juxtaposed with marshy landscapes up north. While largely desolate, you might spot a glimpse of graceful white cranes, eagles, bears, goats or deer.

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North vs South


DMZ, South Korea, Goseong Unification Observatory
A tourist poses by the Goseong Unification Observatory.
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While there may be a few surprises, the DMZ is not the kind of place where an average tourist can, or should, wander off.

On both sides of the border, travelers must stay with their guides and military escorts at all times. You'll also be asked to sign a form that indemnifies authorities should you veer from the pack or chance upon a landmine. But when it comes to codes of conduct, it may surprise some travelers to learn that the southern side of the DMZ is stricter than the northern side.

On the South Korea side, travelers must follow a strict dress code -- no sandals, camouflage, shorts or ripped jeans -- as well as abstain from waving, signaling, pointing or taking pictures without permission.

"It's odd to see any situation where North Korea displays a more relaxed attitude than South Korea -- clearly South Korea is the more open society," says Cockerell. "But that place exists, and it is Panmunjom."

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“It's odd to see any situation where North Korea displays a more relaxed attitude than South Korea.”
Simon Cockerell, Koryo Tours

Cockerell believes cultural exchange may improve humanitarian efforts to elevate the lives of struggling North Korean villagers.

"North Korea is a very complicated place -- a very confusing, frustrating and complex country. Both it and the people who live there deserve a closer look and a more thoughtful understanding than the usual broad-strokes version usually portrayed," says Cockerell.

"Of course, just going on a quick trip won't make everything crystal clear, but it can start a process of learning and understanding."

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