Mingma Tenzi Sherpa was born on 07-11-1984 in the mountains, and raised among some of the highest peaks on Earth. His home village of Yaphu lies in the Sankhuwasabha District in the Eastern part of Nepal, not far from Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest mountain. He had 39 successful summits above 8000 M under his belt.
An expert in high altitude rope fixing, Mingma Tenzi has worked on the climbing and rope fixing team on many of his expeditions, including on Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak in Pakistan. So it’s perhaps no wonder that when he, Nims and Mingma David set out to conquer K2 in winter, it was Mingma Tenzi who was chosen to lead the fixing of the high lines.
Mingma Tenzi made his first trips in 2003, at the tender age of 19, and by 2005 was working as an assistant guide on the trekking peaks of the Himalayas. He climbed Mera Peak (6,476m) that year, Island Peak (6,189m) twice in 2006, and Lobuche (6,119m) that same summer.
By the time the spring climbing season rolled round in 2007, Mingma Tenzi was ready to step up to the next level. That year, he made his first summit of Mount Everest, working as an assistant guide. He then went onto climb Lhotse, the neighbouring peak that is the world’s fourth-highest mountain, just seven days later - an incredible feat of endurance.
The following season found him guiding close to home, working on an expedition to conquer the dauntingly-difficult, 8,485m pyramid of Makalu, reckoned to be among the most difficult of the 8,000ers. By 2010, he’d also summited Dhaulagiri, and was working as a lead guide on Everest.
Mingma Tenzi’s wealth of practical experience is backed up by paperwork, with advanced mountaineering and rescue qualifications from the international recognised Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association. Like his colleagues Nims and Mingma David, Mingma Tenzi has an impeccable safety record when operating in the world’s highest mountains, and his wealth of experience in both the Nepalese Himalayas and the Pakistani Karakorum makes him an invaluable asset to his team.
Director Mingma Tenzi Sherpa is the powerhouse mountaineer who single-handedly fixed lines on the bottleneck on the #K2Winter exped. He said: "No matter what you accomplish in life, you will always remember climbing Everest as the Best Achievement."
FWA OF K-2
On January 16, 2021, shortly before 5pm local time, a team of 10 climbers met just 30 metres from the summit of K2, the world’s second highest mountain. Huddling together to ensure that they reached the top as one, the men began singing the Nepalese national anthem as they strode the last few steps towards the summit - and into the history books.
Before he became one of the first people ever to climb K2 in winter, the name Mingma Tenzi Sherpa might not have been familiar to many in the world outside of mountaineering. But among the tight-knit Himalayan climbing community, it came as no surprise that the then 36-year-old climber was part of the record breaking team who reached the summit.
The stunning achievement, widely recognised as the last great challenge in Himalayan mountaineering, marks the pinnacle (so far, at least) of a long and impressive climbing career that’s seen Mingma Tenzi summit 8,000m peaks no fewer than 39 times - including ten summits of Mount Everest itself.
Just look at his achievements :
Everest - 12 times
K-2 - 3 times including first successful winter ascent in 2021
Kanchanjunga - 1 time
Lhotse - 3 times
Makalu - 1 time
Annapurna - 2 times
Gash-1 - 3 times
Gash-2 - 3 times
Dhaulagiri - 2 times
Broad Peak - 1 time
Manalsu - 7 times
Nanga Parbat - 1 time
With inputs from website of Elite Expeditions
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