Step 5: EyelinerPosition the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lashline along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.
Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner. Make sure that the two lines meet at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.
Step 6: Eyebrow ShapingUse a color that closely matches the color of your brows rather than your hair color or a color you think would look better than what already exists. Apply powder brow color using a wedge brush, working in the direction the hair grows. Use a light touch, with short, quick motions, and avoid the temptation to exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching it severely or extending the brow into the temple area.
Step 7: MascaraIf you use a lash curler, it is best to use it before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure. Hold for a few seconds as you “walk†the curler along the length of the eyelashes, and release slowly. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. Use an old, cleaned-up mascara wand to remove any clumping that occurs.
Apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand). If necessary, use a tissue to wipe excess mascara off the brush before applying to the lower lashes.
Step 8: BlushUsing a blush brush, apply blush along the full line of the cheekbone brushing down and back toward the ear. Always knock the excess powder out of the brush to avoid applying too much blush. Use your sponge to soften any hard edges. Do not apply blush to the temple area, chin, nose, or forehead--this tends to make skin look uneven and ruddy.
Step 9: Lipstick and Lip LinerA lip brush or lip pencil is an optional accessory. You can use a lip pencil to draw a definitive edge around the mouth to follow when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.
Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.
If you want your lipstick to last, apply more of it and don’t blot; blotting takes off several layers before you’ve even left the house.
Important Reminder:Good brushes are essential for applying makeup:
1. Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes.
2. Use a brush that is the correct size for the area of the face you are working on. Avoid brushes that are too large or too small.
3. Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.
4. Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush across the face.
5. Gently wash your brushes every month or so.
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